February 5, 2025
“Beautiful histories” carried by Tla-o-qui-aht art
By Erin Linn McMullan
Driving Hwy 4’s switchbacks towards Načiks (Tofino), the “Welcome to Tla-o-qui-aht Ha’Houlthee” sign is a harbinger you’re almost home. A pair of T̓iick̓in (Thunderbird) č̓iinuł (totem pole) observe your progress – first the male, its wings spread wide at Wally Creek (2022); its female partner, wings draped, awaits atop Kennedy Hill (2024). While stretching at Kennedy River Rest Area you discover qʷayac̓iik (wolf) (2024).
Hjalmer Wenstob, Tla-o-qui-aht artist and Cedar House Gallery[1] owner, describes it as “guerilla art in the sense that we’re really just putting traditional art back where it belongs in the territory.”
Hjalmer was inspired by a trip with Tla-o-qui-aht to Tanzania and Ghana when he was about 17 or 18 years old. “We were traveling for hours and hours on roads and you would come to these welcome signs at the beginning of each territory. When I came home, we decided that it would be something we should do. We put up that welcome sign at the edge of our territory just so people know where they are and that really kind of started the process of these place-marker poles.”
His family creates these together as a gift to the community: when the welcome sign went up Hjalmer was 18 or 19 and his brother, Timothy Masso, eight.
“Really it was a gift for our youth and in our community,” explains Hjalmer. “So, we invited all the kids of our Nation to come up and unveil it and it became a really beautiful celebration. That really started early on this idea of marking out the territory with something good, with artwork and so, slowly, two at a time, we put up poles throughout the entire territory and some of them are known and some of them people haven’t even seen yet and that is exciting to me.
“We work closely with some of our Elders to say what would be fitting for that location, especially for Kennedy River and the entrance to the beautiful mountain range in our territory, the Thunderbird was without a doubt outspoken to what should be there.”
“One of our Elders said it’d be really nice to have a partner for that T̓iick̓in, so we carved a second Thunderbird – more of a house-post style – as our Elders noted that they usually are both male and female.”
Each year, Hjalmer and his family endeavour to put up two poles, one public, and one within the community, crediting support from First Peoples Cultural Council. “To me that’s an exciting part of the project because it’s not just for visitors to see or us to see when we’re traveling, but it’s also for us to see in our daily lives at home.”
Kakawin (Killer whale) (2021) in Esowista preceded a three-to-four-foot Moon Mask on a pole (2021) at Radar Hill commemorating the village once located at its base.
“In that village, one of my ancestors named Cinkwa lived there,” explains Hjalmer, “And that’s now my son’s name and it’s been seven generations from that ancestor to my son. And so, we decided it would be nice to put up a piece in honor of that connection that we have to that place. In the base of the log, we carved seven rings to represent those generational times that have passed between Cinkwa and now Cinkwa.”
Hjalmer remembers Tla-o-qui-aht had only two poles (1989 and 1993) when he was growing up and appreciates how much has changed – with Joe David’s č̓iinuł gifted to Tofino (2018), and with several carved collaboratively under Joe Martin, including Tiičswina, We Survived! (2013) at Tin Wis Resort and Hinaaqsuuqʷa in Opitsaht (2022).
Opitsaht was once home to over 200 č̓iinuł until the devastating events of 1792 when it was bombed by American Captain Robert Gray.
“There’s a record from one of the crew members on Captain Gray’s ship,” explains Hjalmer. “It said it was about 15 minutes from the village standing, beautiful poles, houses, and everything to the village being almost completely destroyed. He was even referencing in his notes how it was just such a heartbreaking experience to witness.
“Everyone is defined by the last few hundred years of Canadian history. These poles are a way of recognizing that our histories go back before the last 200 or 150 years because our people have been here since the beginning of time, and we need to recognize the beautiful histories that we carry.”
“This is partially how the project started as I said to my wife, Annika, ‘Wouldn’t that be amazing to see 200 poles go back up? And in our lifetime or at least in our children’s lifetime to see that happen.’”
[1] Cedar House Gallery in Ucluelet is open in February by appointment via email to art@cedarhousegallery.com or call/text to Annika at 250-893-8579.
Offers and Promotions
Come enjoy Storm Season (3-night minimum from November through February) at a 30% discount by following the link OR by using the promo code “STORMS30”. Book Here.
During Storm Season (October 1, 2024–May 1, 2025), Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground offers long-term (off-season) monthly rates for RV Sites and Cabins. For more information Visit Here: and to Book, email: manager@tsawaakrvresort.ca
Guests of Tin Wis Resort and Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground receive 15% off a session at the newest location of Tuff City Saunas onsite. Book Online using the discount code and present your Tin Wis Bonus Card.
Order food to go or make reservations for lunch or dinner via Tofino Browns Socialhouse’s online portal Here. Now open for Buffet Breakfast 7 a.m.–10 a.m. Open with a full menu from 12 p.m.–10 p.m. (Sunday–Wednesday) and to 11 p.m. (Thursday–Saturday). Social Hour daily from 2-5 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close daily.
Guests of Tin Wis Resort and Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground enjoy a 10% discount for online bookings at Tofino Paddle Surf onsite year-round. Open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Book Here. Learn to surf or shred to the next level with customizable 3-day surf camps for all skills and all ages. Three days of lessons with your own private instructor. All gear up to 6 people. $750. Taxes not included. Add additional surf lessons $275 per lesson. Additional participants $100 per person. Available February 17–June 15, 2025. Blackout dates may apply. For the exclusive discount contact Tofino Paddle Surf: info@tofinopaddlesurf.com or 250-244-6399.
Guests of Tin Wis Resort and Tsawaak RV Resort & Campground receive $20 off with their discount code when booking with Ahous Adventures online or by calling 250-725-0650. Hot Springs tours run year-round weather permitting. Ahous Adventures is located downtown at 368 Main Street, Unit 313. Present your bonus card on arrival for your tour.
Prebook for spring with T-Bird E-Bikes reopening in April 2025. Choose the Tofino location online for Tin Wis Resort, which features both E-bikes and standard bikes. Visit: https://www.tbirdebikes.com/
Plan ahead for next summer’s Tofino Wine & Dine 2025 (June 7-8) by purchasing your weekend showpass Here.